There comes a time when we are lying there soaking in a lovely, warm relaxing bathtub, the aroma of the bath suds mixed with the sweet smell of those candles you got for Christmas and everything in your world is exactly where it should be.
If, like me, those moments are very few are far between, you will have a tendency to let your mind wander and your immediate surroundings become noticeable for the first time in what seems like an age and what you can see is that the silicone sealant that was once pristine, white and perfectly straight has now taken on a more lived-in look.
The constant humidity in the bathroom has caused it to discolour and, in some places, has become mouldy, and in others, it is starting to peel, which is not just a bad look but also not proving to be waterproof anymore.
It is not just aesthetics that play a part in the next decision but the fact that water is seeping in and possibly causing permanent damage to the abyss underneath your bath.
It is now time to consider resealing the bathtub, and if it is not a project you have done before, it can, like any new do-it-yourself skill, be very daunting.
Have no fear; it is an easy-to-do DIY repair that will save you money and prove to be much more cost-effective than hiring a builder or plumber to do it for you.
The sooner you deal with this problem, the easy and cheaper it will be to maintain. As with any ongoing issues in your house, the worse it gets, the longer it will take to fix.
Tools For The Job
These are the essentials you will need to remove and replace the silicone sealant are it is not going to cost the earth:
- Silicone sealant removal gel or liquid
- Silicone sealant removing tool or sharp utility knife (Stanley or box cutter)
- Warm soapy water/white spirit
- Silicone gun
- Waterproof and mould-proof sealant/ Also known as silicone
- Sponge with scouring pad attached
- Gloves and goggles
- Sealant profiling tool (optional)
Once you have these, you are ready to start to turn your bathtub into that luxurious space again.
Step 1: Removal Of Old Silicone Sealant.
You have to remove all of the old silicone sealant before applying a fresh coat, and you can definitely not apply new sealant on top of the old stuff.
All traces will have to be detached from the actual bath tub and tiles or wall to ensure good adhesion when you add the new waterproof and mould-proof seal.
There are a few schools of thought regarding the first part of the process, but adding a silicone sealant remover such as No Nonsense Sealant Remover 100ml | Silicone Remover | Screwfix.com or, in some cases, simply using white spirit will make the next stage so much easier as it will break down the sealant enough for you to be able to scrape away more effectively.
Please be aware that these are solvent-based gels and fluids, so wearing gloves and goggles is necessary to protect you. The packaging will contain the health and safety guidelines that are in place at this moment.
The average time for the silicone sealant remover to take effect is 3 hours, which is about the same time as the white spirit, and once you are happy, you can start the scraping. There are many tools which will be effective.
Still, I have seen great results from the sealant-removing tool and Vitrex All-in-One Sealant Remover & Profiler Kit 35mm | Tiling Accessories | Screwfix.com even comes with a profiler for the latter stages. Alternatively, a utility knife or Stanley knife will suffice.
It is literally a matter of cutting away at the silicone, where it joins the bathtub and the wall. On some of those occasions where the universe is smiling upon you, you may just be able to lift the first part and gently pull it away from the gap in which it sits.
Please do not rely upon this happening as that does totally depend on the current state and quality of the sealer. Try to remove as much as you can from the bathtub and tiled walls, as this will make the next stage much easier.
For those very stubborn bits, you can use a replaceable window scraper like this one:
Once you feel most of the old silicone sealant has come away from the area, you can wipe it down.
Firstly, take the sponge and use the soft side to wipe away any remaining residue, do not wet the sponge first, as any remaining sealant could be smeared along the bathtub and wall and will have to be scraped again.
Once you are happy with that, you can now wet the sponge and use the rough (scouring) side to clean away the last of the sealant.
No matter how much you have scraped and scrubbed, you will notice a layer of what can best be described as grease on the surface of your bath and walls, and this has to be removed before any new silicone sealant is applied.
The simplest and easiest way to do this is the trusty white spirit; you can use the soft part of the sponge to do this and just wipe it away until it is clean. I would then leave the surfaces to dry as it will take an hour or so for the white spirit to evaporate fully.
Top Tip: As the white spirit is a chemical, you must wear gloves to protect your skin.
Step 2 Applying The Silicone Sealant.
This is the part we have been getting ready for and with all do-it-yourself projects, preparation has been the key to a successful outcome.
For this part of our renovation, we will need a silicone gun, sometimes referred to as a mastic or skeleton gun, and a waterproof and mould-resistant bathroom silicone sealant tube.
Top Tip: Pay attention to the size of the sealant tube to ensure you have a silicone gun of the right size, as they have various sizes available.
Once you have both of these ready, you will use your utility knife to open the silicone tube and cut the nozzle to the appropriate size and shape. The nozzle will already have a small round opening from the manufacturer, but we need to change the angle of this slightly for this job.
We need to cut the end of the nozzle at a 45-degree angle with the knife (making sure you cut away from yourself), and this has to be free of any frayed edges, so you may need to tidy it up just a little bit before you start.
Top Tip: As all bathtubs move a little when filled with water, it is essential to fill the bathtub with the same amount you would have for a normal soak, as this will enable you to fill the void to its full capacity.
Once you are happy with the nozzle and the bath water, you can start filling the gap left by the old sealant. Please ensure that you get the tip of the nozzle right into the gap between the bath and the wall.
The method you now need is slow and steady; it is not a race to finish but an assignment to get as close to perfection as possible.
Squeeze the trigger of the silicone gun firmly and gently pull it along the seam between the wall and the bathtub. If you have never used a silicone gun before, there is a knack to it, but fundamentally the trigger will release itself every 30 centimetres or so, and you just apply the same amount of gentle pressure each time to give a nice, even flow of sealant. Do not worry if it gets a little messy, as you will smooth off any excess in the next step.
Step 3 Striking Off.
This is the final stage of the repair of your now beautiful-looking bathtub. You can use either your finger or the sealant profiling tool for this; it is once again a slow and steady action that you require to simply drag your finger or the profiling tool along the silicone to give it a fine smooth finish.
Top Tip: Spray the silicone sealant with a weak soapy solution of washing up liquid and water first, as this will prevent any of the sealant from sticking to the bath or wall.
That is the job now completed. I would advise leaving the water in the tub overnight or just enough time for the silicone to dry and then letting it out through the plughole.
The only thing left is for you to lie back in a steaming hot bath and enjoy the fruits of your labour.
